1) Measuring tape
2)Pattern paper
3) Pencil
4)Scissors
5) Fabrics
6)Pins
7) Iron
8) Needle and thread
Step 1 : Take your measurements for shoulder to shoulder, around the chest, arm length and arm circumference at the underarm. For example, 17 inches for the shoulder, 38 inches for the chest, 22 inches for the arm and 15 inches for around the underarm.
Step 2 : Draw a rectangle on a sheet of pattern paper. The rectangle should be 5 inches wider than half the chest measurement and as long as you want the baju kurung shirt to be, generally about knee to mid-calf length. Cut out the rectangle. For example, 24 inches for half the chest plus 5, and a length of 30 inches.
Step 3 : Fold the rectangle in half lengthwise to get the center, then unfold. Mark a line that is centered on one end of the rectangle that is 18 inches (the shoulder-to-shoulder measurement plus an inch). In the center of the shoulder length line, make a half circle as wide and deep as you want the neck to be, minus an inch. If you want a 6-inch-deep neck and an 8-inch-wide neck, make the half circle 5 inches deep and 7 inches wide. Cut out the neck.
Step 4 : Measure down from the ends of the shoulder line 7 1/2 inches (half the circumference of the arm) and make a mark on the side of the rectangle. Draw a line that curves out from the shoulder line to each arm line for the armholes. Cut out the armhole lines. This is the pattern for the front and back of the baju kurung.
Step 5 : Draw a second rectangle that is 23 inches long and 17 inches wide (as long as the arm length plus an inch and as wide as the arm circumference, plus 2 inches). At one end of the rectangle, draw a bell shape curve that cuts off the corners; cut around the curve and the rest of the rectangle to make the arm piece pattern.
Step 6 : Fold a length of 60-inch fabric (two times longer than the length of the baju kurung) in half. Place the baju kurung front and back pattern onto the folded material, with the shoulders of the pattern on the fold. Pin the pattern to the fabric and cut around it. Cut out two pieces of material using the arm piece pattern.
Step 6 : Fold a length of 60-inch fabric (two times longer than the length of the baju kurung) in half. Place the baju kurung front and back pattern onto the folded material, with the shoulders of the pattern on the fold. Pin the pattern to the fabric and cut around it. Cut out two pieces of material using the arm piece pattern.
Step 7 : Fold the arm piece in half lengthwise and wrong-side out and sew along the seam using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Hem the non-curved edge of the sleeves in a double 1/4-inch seam.
Step 8 : Turn the body piece of material (it will be joined at the shoulders) wrong-side out. Sew the sides together from the underarm to about 12 inches from the bottom using a 1/2-inch seam. Fold the remaining sides over into double 1/4-inch seams separately, so there is a split in each side of the garment. Sew the seam, and hem the bottom in a double 1/4-inch seam.
Step 9 : Cut 1/4-inch notches every 2 inches around the curved edge of the sleeves as well as the armholes on the main body of the garment. Pin the edges of the armholes to the sleeves right-sides together, then sew around the armholes with a 1/2-inch seam to attach the sleeves. Turn the garment in the right way.
Step 10 : Cut out a new piece of cloth shaped like a keyhole that has a circle the same size as the neck hole, and the long portion of the keyhole as long as you want the slit in the front of the neck to be. For example, 5 inches deep and 7 wide for the circle, and a slit of 5 inches long; the long portion of the keyhole should be about 2 inches wide for seam allowance. Notch the edges of the neck hole as well as the sides of the keyhole.
Step 11 : Pin the keyhole fabric to the edges of the neck hole, right sides together, with the long portion of the keyhole going straight down at the front of the neck. Sew the neck hole to the keyhole fabric with an inch margin. When you get to the long portion of the keyhole, turn the sewing so it goes down one side of the long portion and then back up the other side in a "V" shape.
Step 8 : Turn the body piece of material (it will be joined at the shoulders) wrong-side out. Sew the sides together from the underarm to about 12 inches from the bottom using a 1/2-inch seam. Fold the remaining sides over into double 1/4-inch seams separately, so there is a split in each side of the garment. Sew the seam, and hem the bottom in a double 1/4-inch seam.
Step 9 : Cut 1/4-inch notches every 2 inches around the curved edge of the sleeves as well as the armholes on the main body of the garment. Pin the edges of the armholes to the sleeves right-sides together, then sew around the armholes with a 1/2-inch seam to attach the sleeves. Turn the garment in the right way.
Step 10 : Cut out a new piece of cloth shaped like a keyhole that has a circle the same size as the neck hole, and the long portion of the keyhole as long as you want the slit in the front of the neck to be. For example, 5 inches deep and 7 wide for the circle, and a slit of 5 inches long; the long portion of the keyhole should be about 2 inches wide for seam allowance. Notch the edges of the neck hole as well as the sides of the keyhole.
Step 11 : Pin the keyhole fabric to the edges of the neck hole, right sides together, with the long portion of the keyhole going straight down at the front of the neck. Sew the neck hole to the keyhole fabric with an inch margin. When you get to the long portion of the keyhole, turn the sewing so it goes down one side of the long portion and then back up the other side in a "V" shape.
Step 12 : Cut out in the center of the keyhole fabric about an inch away from the seam, as well as down the center of the "V" shape neck. Fold the keyhole fabric inside the neck, pressing it with an iron so the seam creates the edge of the neck. The neck will be circular with a "V" slit at the front. Baste the keyhole fabric to the inside of the neck with needle and thread to finish the baju kurung. Wear with a sarong.
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