How to Sew a Baju Kurung

Things You'll Need..  


1) Measuring tape


2)Pattern paper


3) Pencil


4)Scissors


5) Fabrics


6)Pins


7) Iron


8) Needle and thread   


Step 1 : Take your measurements for shoulder to shoulder, around the chest, arm length and arm circumference at the underarm. For example, 17 inches for the shoulder, 38 inches for the chest, 22 inches for the arm and 15 inches for around the underarm. 




Step 2 : Draw a rectangle on a sheet of pattern paper. The rectangle should be 5 inches wider than half the chest measurement and as long as you want the baju kurung shirt to be, generally about knee to mid-calf length. Cut out the rectangle. For example, 24 inches for half the chest plus 5, and a length of 30 inches.



Step 3 : Fold the rectangle in half lengthwise to get the center, then unfold. Mark a line that is centered on one end of the rectangle that is 18 inches (the shoulder-to-shoulder measurement plus an inch). In the center of the shoulder length line, make a half circle as wide and deep as you want the neck to be, minus an inch. If you want a 6-inch-deep neck and an 8-inch-wide neck, make the half circle 5 inches deep and 7 inches wide. Cut out the neck.





Step 4 : Measure down from the ends of the shoulder line 7 1/2 inches (half the circumference of the arm) and make a mark on the side of the rectangle. Draw a line that curves out from the shoulder line to each arm line for the armholes. Cut out the armhole lines. This is the pattern for the front and back of the baju kurung. 

Step 5 : Draw a second rectangle that is 23 inches long and 17 inches wide (as long as the arm length plus an inch and as wide as the arm circumference, plus 2 inches). At one end of the rectangle, draw a bell shape curve that cuts off the corners; cut around the curve and the rest of the rectangle to make the arm piece pattern.



Step 6 : Fold a length of 60-inch fabric (two times longer than the length of the baju kurung) in half. Place the baju kurung front and back pattern onto the folded material, with the shoulders of the pattern on the fold. Pin the pattern to the fabric and cut around it. Cut out two pieces of material using the arm piece pattern. 

Step 7 : Fold the arm piece in half lengthwise and wrong-side out and sew along the seam using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Hem the non-curved edge of the sleeves in a double 1/4-inch seam.




Step 8 : Turn the body piece of material (it will be joined at the shoulders) wrong-side out. Sew the sides together from the underarm to about 12 inches from the bottom using a 1/2-inch seam. Fold the remaining sides over into double 1/4-inch seams separately, so there is a split in each side of the garment. Sew the seam, and hem the bottom in a double 1/4-inch seam.




Step 9 : Cut 1/4-inch notches every 2 inches around the curved edge of the sleeves as well as the armholes on the main body of the garment. Pin the edges of the armholes to the sleeves right-sides together, then sew around the armholes with a 1/2-inch seam to attach the sleeves. Turn the garment in the right way.



Step 10 : Cut out a new piece of cloth shaped like a keyhole that has a circle the same size as the neck hole, and the long portion of the keyhole as long as you want the slit in the front of the neck to be. For example, 5 inches deep and 7 wide for the circle, and a slit of 5 inches long; the long portion of the keyhole should be about 2 inches wide for seam allowance. Notch the edges of the neck hole as well as the sides of the keyhole.



Step 11 : Pin the keyhole fabric to the edges of the neck hole, right sides together, with the long portion of the keyhole going straight down at the front of the neck. Sew the neck hole to the keyhole fabric with an inch margin. When you get to the long portion of the keyhole, turn the sewing so it goes down one side of the long portion and then back up the other side in a "V" shape. 

Step 12 : Cut out in the center of the keyhole fabric about an inch away from the seam, as well as down the center of the "V" shape neck. Fold the keyhole fabric inside the neck, pressing it with an iron so the seam creates the edge of the neck. The neck will be circular with a "V" slit at the front. Baste the keyhole fabric to the inside of the neck with needle and thread to finish the baju kurung. Wear with a sarong.

Tips to Sew a Baju Kurung

1) Fabrics.

  

For the beginner sewer, the fabric choice is integral to the success of the outfit. Baju kurung, while usually created in silks or other slippery materials, can also be made in a more casual cotton, which is easy to sew and more durable. When creating your first baju kurung, create it out of a lightweight cotton, for, while it may not be acceptable in formal society, it is the perfect means of learning how to create the traditional dress for casual wear without ruining good fabrics.

2) Neckline 

 

Often thought of as the most difficult part of the baju kurung, the neckline should be paid the most attention to when sewing the garment. To reinforce this neckline, place another piece of material of the same make as the garment, or reinforce it with designated batting. Also, always ensure that the circle is even before cutting it, because if it is not, it will sit crookedly on the shoulders.

3) Beading 

 

• Beading a plain baju kurung is a way of improving its appearance and personalizing it stylistically. Strands of beads can also aid in covering imperfect seams. Sew small or large flat beads, or clumps of them, over rips in fabric or small stains. This also allows for the quality of the material used to be lower, saving money, and the creation of a garment that is completely unique.

4) Accessories 

 

1. • While sewing the baju kurung, use the very same material to make several accessories for the garment. This creates a consistent outfit that will match, for some materials used are hard to match with necessary accessories, such as a headscarf for women. Create the long draping covering for hair using the same material, or a thin belt for men. Decorate the accessories the same way as the garment, with beading if applicable.

Types of Baju Kurung..

 

The traditional Baju Kurung  is worn with the hemline well below the knee. The neckline is round with a vertical 6 inch slit at the front. This neckline is finished in herringbone stitching. The neckline is worn with a special single Baju Kurung button which is held in place by two loops. The baju has one patch pocket placed at the right hand side of the front panel of the baju.

 

The Baju Kurung Kedah  is basically like the traditional Baju, but is cut shorter. The hem being just below the waistline; it is in fact a crop version of the traditional Baju Kurung.

 

The Baju Kurung Moden is the modern version of the Baju. The basic cut for the Baju Kurung Moden is different from the traditional cut and the collars are worn in a variety of different styles. Accessories like piping and fancy buttons are also added.

The History of Baju Kurung

`The Baju Kurung is a traditional Malay costume which loosely translated as "Enclosed Dress". This type of costume is the national dress of Brunei and Malaysia, and can also be found in Indonesia, Singapore and Thailand.  

  Malay girl look nice in Baju Kurung 

The Baju Kurung for women, like the Baju Melayu for the men, is said to originate from the Malaysian state of Johore about 200 years ago and is said to be styled and fashioned by the late HRH Sultan Abu Bakar of Johore in 1866. It was said that HRH fashioned and popularized the attire to reminisce and leave a legacy following the change of the Johore state capital from Teluk Belanga to Johor Bahru (new name for Bandar Tanjung Puteri). This Baju Kurung Teluk Belanga for both men and women was popular during the Sultan’s reign as he regularly wore this style, and made it the official attire of the Johore Malays.

Baju Kurung....

When I was in childhood, I don't really like to wear Baju Kurung. For me baju kurung is made only for old folks... I only wear baju kurung to school and for Hari Raya definitely.. hihihi.. As I grow up, i learnt to accept that as a Malay girl I should be proud of my own costume. Where else can you found baju kurung except in Malaysia. It shows that it I am Malaysian. It tells other people that I am Malay girl.. :)